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台灣牛奶為什麼這麼貴?從價格、標示看台灣酪農的產業變化,以及進口奶、冰磚奶帶來的衝擊

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Why is Taiwan's milk the world's most expensive? A deep dive into production costs, rising imports, and the new July labeling rules.台灣牛奶為何全球最貴?從生產成本、進口衝擊到7月新標章一次說清楚。

Background and origins of the investigation

0:00:00–0:05:00 背景介紹與報導緣起

  • 0:00:00 The episode is prompted by viral discussions about Taiwan's expensive milk, timed with new July 1 labeling regulations; guests are NTU journalism students Caiyu and Lijue, plus Dairy Association Secretary-General Fang Qingquan.
    社群熱議「台灣牛奶為何這麼貴」,並搭上7月1日即將上路的乳品標示新規定,本集邀請台大新聞所學生彩魚、麗覺與中華民國乳業協會秘書長方清泉共同討論。
  • 0:03:00 The investigation began with data showing Taiwan's dairy and beef cattle numbers in long-term decline, prompting reporters to investigate why.
    報導起源於數據觀察:台灣乳牛數量(產乳牛與肉牛)長期下滑,記者們想追查原因。
  • 0:04:00 The Taiwan–New Zealand trade agreement's first full year of zero-tariff imports in 2025 became a second entry point for the investigation.
    2025年台紐貿易協定生效後首個完整年度,進口牛奶以零關稅進入台灣,成為報導的另一切入點。
  • 0:05:00 Reporters found the share of imported milk steadily rising and suspected a causal link: more imports leading dairy processors to demand lower output from local farmers.
    記者發現進口奶比例持續攀升,推測進口量增加可能導致乳品廠要求酪農減產,兩者可能互為因果。

Why Taiwan's milk ranks as the world's most expensive

0:06:00–0:08:00 台灣牛奶為何全球最貴

  • 0:06:00 Taiwan's milk recently rose from second to first most expensive globally; a one-liter bottle at convenience stores costs roughly NT$80–120.
    台灣牛奶近期從全球第二貴升為第一貴;超商一公升鮮奶售價約80至120元。
  • 0:06:00 Cost breakdown per liter: roughly 30% to the farmer, 30% to the dairy processor, and 40% to retail shelf fees.
    每公升售價成本拆分:約30%歸酪農、30%歸乳品廠、40%為通路上架費。
  • 0:06:00 Nearly all raw materials are imported, with material costs alone approaching NT$30 per liter; almost every farm employs foreign migrant workers.
    原物料幾乎全靠進口,單是原物料成本就接近每公升30元;幾乎每座牧場都有聘用外籍移工。
  • 0:08:00 Costco's Kirkland milk was about NT$66 per liter last year; if a Taiwan–US zero-tariff deal passes, it is expected to drop to NT$60.
    Costco Kirkland牛奶去年每公升約66元;若台美貿易協定零關稅通過,預期降至60元。

Cost structure of Taiwan's dairy farming

0:09:00–0:12:00 台灣酪農的生產成本結構

  • 0:09:00 Regulations allow up to 200 cows per hectare; average land cost across Taiwan is about NT$40 million per hectare, meaning land alone costs NT$200,000 per cow.
    依法規,一公頃農地最多可養200頭牛;台灣南北平均一公頃農地約需4000萬台幣,等於每頭牛光土地成本就達20萬。
  • 0:10:00 Taiwan's hot, humid, typhoon- and earthquake-prone climate requires barns with high ceilings for ventilation, earthquake-resistant structures, and waterbeds for animal welfare, adding about NT$150,000 per cow in construction costs.
    台灣高溫多濕、颱風地震頻繁,牛舍須採一樓半以上通風設計、防震結構,且為維護動物福祉提供水床,每頭牛建設成本約15萬。
  • 0:10:00 Equipment and cold-chain costs add about NT$50,000 per cow, and the cow itself costs around NT$100,000, bringing total per-cow investment to roughly NT$500,000 — a NT$100 million commitment for a 200-head farm.
    加上器具冷鏈設備約5萬、牛隻本身約10萬,一頭牛總成本約50萬,200頭牧場總投入達億元規模。
  • 0:11:00 It takes about two years from breeding to milk production; Taiwan's fresh milk reaches store shelves nationwide within 24 hours, one of the fastest farm-to-shelf supply chains in the world.
    從繁殖到能產奶約需兩年;台灣鮮奶從牧場到全台量販店貨架僅需24小時,是全球速度最快的鮮乳供應鏈之一。

Retail markups and price comparison with overseas markets

0:12:00–0:15:00 通路費用與國內外售價比較

  • 0:12:00 Farmers receive NT$30 per liter while the retail price reaches NT$90, a 1:3 ratio; the US and Europe average 1:2 to 1:2.2, making Taiwan's markup notably higher.
    生產者每公升收30元,末端售價約90元,比例達1比3;美國、歐洲的生產端到末端比例約為1比2至1比2.2,台灣明顯偏高。
  • 0:14:00 Taiwan's subtropical humid climate — unlike Israel's dry desert heat — fundamentally raises the cost of keeping cows comfortable, and this cannot easily be reduced.
    亞熱帶潮濕氣候(不同於以色列的乾燥沙漠)使台灣養牛環境成本更高,這是生產端成本降不下來的根本原因。
  • 0:14:00 About 70% of feed is imported; during COVID-19, shipping costs for a 40-foot container surged from US$2,000–3,000 to US$15,000–20,000, causing feed prices to spike roughly tenfold.
    飼料成本約70%靠進口;COVID-19期間40呎貨櫃運費從2000–3000美元飆漲至15,000–20,000美元,飼料價格同步暴漲約10倍。

Differences between fresh milk, extended shelf-life milk, and UHT milk

0:16:00–0:19:00 鮮乳、長效乳、保久乳的差異

  • 0:16:00 Milk is classified by pasteurization: domestic fresh milk uses 120–130°C for 2–5 seconds; Costco Kirkland is ESL (extended shelf life), pasteurized at 138°C+ for 2 seconds in sterile packaging, with a 90-day refrigerated shelf life.
    以殺菌溫度與時間區分:國產鮮乳多採120–130°C殺菌2–5秒;Costco Kirkland屬長效鮮乳(ESL),採138°C以上殺菌2秒加無菌包材,保存期限可達90天需冷藏。
  • 0:17:00 NTU's fresh milk uses low-temperature long-time (LTLT) pasteurization at around 63–72°C for 30 minutes, preserving more nutrients but resulting in a shorter shelf life.
    台大鮮奶採低溫長時間殺菌法(63–72°C,30分鐘),保留較多營養成分,但保存期限較短。
  • 0:18:00 Domestic fresh milk lasts 13 days; imported ESL milk lasts up to 90 days; UHT (sterilized) milk can be stored at room temperature for six months.
    國產鮮乳保存期限為13天;進口ESL長效奶可達90天(三個月);保久乳(UHT)常溫可放半年。

July 1 new labeling rules: "fresh milk" vs. "milk"

0:19:00–0:24:00 7月1日新標示規定:鮮乳 vs. 牛乳

  • 0:19:00 Starting July 1, 2026, only milk holding one of three certifications — Fresh Milk Certification Mark, CAS Excellent Agricultural Product, or Production and Sales Resume — may be labeled "fresh milk (鮮乳)"; others must be labeled "milk (牛乳)."
    2026年7月1日起,僅取得三種認證之一(鮮乳標章、CAS優良農產品、產銷履歷)的牛奶才能標示「鮮乳」,否則只能標「牛乳」。
  • 0:20:00 The rule's background: imported long-life milk had also been labeled "fresh milk," creating unfair competition; the Dairy Association formally petitioned the Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry of Health, and Ministry of Economic Affairs in 2024.
    新規的來龍去脈:外國進口長效奶過去也標「鮮奶」,對國內業者造成不公平競爭;乳業協會2024年正式行文農業部、衛福部、經濟部提出抗議。
  • 0:21:00 Ice-brick concentrated milk is an even bigger issue: water and some components are removed abroad, then the bricks are imported and reconstituted in Taiwanese factories — usually diluted to 4× volume — and widely used in B2B channels like hotel breakfasts and convenience store lattes.
    冰磚奶(濃縮奶)問題更嚴重:將牛奶去除水分甚至部分成分後製成冰磚進口,在台灣工廠加水還原(通常加4倍水),大量用於B2B市場,如飯店早餐牛奶、超商咖啡拿鐵。
  • 0:22:00 Under the new rules, a café advertising "fresh milk latte" must use Taiwan-certified fresh milk, as must "fresh milk buns"; the goal is to ensure what consumers pay for matches what they receive.
    新規後,若咖啡店標榜「鮮奶拿鐵」,用的牛奶就必須是台灣認證鮮乳;蒸饅頭稱「鮮奶饅頭」也同樣要求,目的是讓消費者付出的代價與買到的東西相符。

Import data: explosive growth of ice-brick and liquid milk imports

0:25:00–0:30:00 進口數據:冰磚奶與液態奶的爆炸性成長

  • 0:25:00 In 2008, domestic raw milk production was about 310,000 metric tons; by 2025 it reached 466,000 metric tons, a roughly 47% increase.
    民國97年(2008年)國產生乳產量約31萬公噸;至114年(2025年)達46萬6千公噸,成長約47%。
  • 0:25:00 Over the same period, imported liquid milk (including ESL and UHT) surged from 4,196 to 59,596 metric tons — a 14-fold increase.
    同期進口液態奶(含ESL、保久乳等)從4,196公噸暴增至59,596公噸,成長14倍。
  • 0:26:00 Ice-brick milk went from 424 to 24,712 metric tons between 2008 and 2025; reconstituted at 4× volume, that equals 98,848 metric tons — combined with imported liquid milk, imports now account for 34% of Taiwan's market.
    冰磚濃縮奶從97年的424公噸成長至114年的24,712公噸;乘以4倍還原後相當於98,848公噸,與進口液態奶合計已占台灣市場34%。
  • 0:29:00 Using Ministry of Agriculture data, reporters calculated the average import price of ice-brick milk at about NT$27 per liter, versus NT$37 for domestic raw milk — ice-brick milk is about 30% cheaper than locally produced raw milk.
    記者向農業部取得數據計算:冰磚奶進口均價約每公升27元;台灣本地生乳收購價約37元,冰磚奶比國產生乳便宜約30%。

Dairy farmers' dilemma: reduced quotas, dumping milk, and the barriers to self-branding

0:31:00–0:39:00 酪農的困境:減收、倒奶、自有品牌之難

  • 0:32:00 This year all four major dairy processors — Uni-President, Wei Chuan, Kuang Chuan, and I-Mei — demanded lower purchase quotas at contract renewal; one northern farmer who had just expanded capacity was immediately told to reduce output.
    今年四大乳品廠(統一、味全、光泉、義美)在換約時均要求減收,一位北部酪農剛擴充牧場設備,卻被品牌方要求減量,面臨矛盾處境。
  • 0:33:00 Excess raw milk that cannot be sold to smaller processors must be dumped — farmers described this as the most heartbreaking part of their situation.
    多出的生乳若不能轉賣給小廠,只能倒掉,是酪農訴說過程中最心酸的部分。
  • 0:34:00 The four major processors account for about 76% of raw milk purchases; over 90% of dairy farmers have exclusive contracts, creating near one-to-one dependent relationships.
    四大廠囊括台灣生乳收購量約76%;超過九成酪農都與品牌方簽約,形成近乎一對一的獨家關係。
  • 0:35:00 Animal Husbandry Act requires farms to sign with a dairy processor; food hygiene regulations prohibit selling unprocessed raw milk, effectively closing off direct-to-consumer sales for farmers.
    畜牧法規定牧場必須與乳品廠簽約;食品衛生法規定生乳不得未加工直接販售,兩道法規把酪農自售的路幾乎堵死。
  • 0:37:00 Major processors refuse to contract-manufacture for competing farm brands; legal small co-manufacturers are scarce and low-capacity; parcel delivery costs (e.g., Yamato Transport) versus bulk truckload delivery make small-farm direct sales economically unviable.
    若要建立自有品牌,大乳品廠絕不代工(因為會自我競爭);台灣合法小型代工廠數量少、產量低;宅配物流成本(如黑貓宅急便)與大廠整車運輸差距懸殊,小農根本無法競爭。

Industry outlook: government's role and post-labeling prospects

0:40:00–0:44:00 產業出路:政府角色與新標章後的展望

  • 0:40:00 Secretary-General Fang calls for three-year contracts with fixed purchase volumes — allowing only annual price adjustments — to give farmers a stable production base.
    秘書長呼籲:品牌方與酪農簽約時應保持三年內收購量不變,僅允許每年調整價格,讓酪農有穩定生產基礎。
  • 0:42:00 The government should strengthen food-agriculture education to help consumers distinguish fresh milk from various imports, and require bubble tea shops, coffee chains, and hotels to honestly label the milk products they use.
    政府應加強食農教育,讓消費者理解鮮乳與各類進口奶的差異;同時要求手搖飲、咖啡店、大飯店誠實標示所用乳品來源。
  • 0:30:00 Milk is framed as a "national defense food": when Qatar's diplomatic rift with Saudi Arabia cut off milk imports, Qatar faced an immediate crisis — demonstrating the strategic importance of maintaining domestic dairy capacity.
    牛奶被視為「國防食品」:卡達與沙烏地阿拉伯外交衝突時,卡達因無自產牛奶頓時陷入危機,說明維持本土酪農產業具有糧食安全的戰略意義。
  • 0:43:00 The key thing to watch after July 1 is whether clearer product labeling allows domestic fresh milk and imported dairy products to find their respective market positions, and whether the imbalanced relationship between processors and farmers can be rebalanced.
    7月1日新標章上路後,真正的觀察重點在於:產品名稱透明化之後,國產鮮乳與進口乳品能否各自找到定位,以及乳品廠與酪農的關係能否重新平衡。